Sunday, April 22, 2012

Destination Darwin: Into the Wild

The crown jewel of tours in Darwin, is the Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise.

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Looking at the headlines of the Northern Territory over the years and you get a good idea of how crocodiles are a huge part of their lives, welcomed or otherwise!

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Before getting on board, they brought out a couple of animals such as a snake and this ridiculously cute baby wallaby. Its mom got knocked down on the highway and they managed to save the little one. It seems happy being taken care by humans but Darwin's really not short of wallabies!

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The cruise brings you down a short stretch of Adelaide River, but already it feels like another world out there. Gigantic saltwater crocs leap out of the water, in your face, and so close that you could touch them, if you don't mind losing an arm! It's a wicked feeling watching them approach the bait. They swim diagonally towards the boat, always using the fact that its eyes are on both sides of its head to its advantage. One eye on the bait, one eye on you. No funny business.

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Now that's quite a scary sight isn't it! Generally crocs that grow to a grand age and a huge length like this one, are more cautious or their carelessness would've cost them their life! One of the crocs was missing a leg, but swam normally and was as ferocious as any other.

If that hasn't put you off crocodiles, head this way for more fantastic photos by your truly of the crocodiles gathering speed and making a leap out of the water, exposing their gorgeous white bellies and showing why, after a gazillion years, these creatures have not changed much. Undoubtedly one of the most powerful hunters on Earth!

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We got a special treat when they also fed the kites!

These birds swooped down one after another, giving each other a go at the meat that was being thrown to them. They flew towards our seasoned guide - right in front of us - as if it were an airport run way! It was the most amazing experience getting up close with them.

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And here I am, getting up close and personal with a croc. ;)

After that we got up our mini-bus, which was christened "Loose Mary" as "she'd been around a lot"! The bus was small-ish and much less powerful that what our guide, Nick, was used to. Apparently there was a flood that only subsided a couple of days before and there was some damage being dealt to the road that leading to our next destination, the Wildman Wilderness Lodge, which was why we had to ride Loose Mary.

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The Wildman Wilderness Lodge was nothing short of stunning. We reached there in the late afternoon, just as the sun was going down and were unbelievably excited about getting the opportunity to stay there. We were face-to-face with the wetlands, plenty of wallabies and it seemed as though we were living among the termite nests. We were that close to nature!

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Opposite the reception was a small corner full of memorabilia. Didn't buy any, which was a pity but I'm sure I'll be back!

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We were greeted by the yummy welcome drinks and Jason, who ran the place. He was extremely warm and welcoming and that was a really comforting feeling because we were really in the middle of nowhere and it was great to have this guy who was confidently in charge, introducing the lodge and its surroundings to us.

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There were two types of accomodation - the air-conditioned and fully-sealed Habitat, which was where Edric and I stayed, and the more adventurous, Safari Tent. There was quite a bit of difference when night fell as it became the only place for miles around that had light. Inevitably, insects swarmed around and you really need to be armed with more than just a lack of fear of insects to be able get on top the situation!

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Aside from that, I'm not sure if you can see this strip of bare, grass-less land in front of the Habitat. We asked around and that, ladies and gentlemen, is a freaking runway for planes, should you be inclined to fly to the Wildman Wilderness Lodge.

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The Habitat is really gorgeous, really comfortable and you feel safe from the elements being in it! For some people, it might defeat the purpose of coming all the way here, but for those who want hotel-like luxury, Habitat's truly got it.

The shower's rather exciting too - there's a glass panel reaching all the way to your feet, so you can be as naked as the wallabies looking at you taking your shower! (There're no promises that other guests won't walk in front of your lodge, but the staff will only come round the back) For the more inhibited, you could lower the blinds, which is certainly not as thrilling as showering with the full view of the Mary River Wetlands. As conservatively (NOT!) Asian as I am I'd feel a little more comfortable if it was frosted bottom-up till my crotch maybe, but it was a really cool experience!

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Gorgeous.

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The dining area had a bar, and this cosy corner where you could look out into the sunset. You could take a dip in the pool too.

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Having a wine in hand in the midst of soft chatter, and being out there, out in the wide open space, was just liberating. The temperature dipped but we had a little fireplace...

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... where we saw the birds fly off across the magnificent orange sky.

Dinner was not too bad, with exotic Australian fare - crocodile and kangaroo meat - and yes, the bugs were a bit much but you learn to take it in your stride. I's definitely one of the more exciting aspects of the dinner, being bugged by bugs, but it was bearable and after that, we ran to take shelter in the air-conditioned bar.

Staff at the lodge came from all over the world. This young lady, told us of how she was hiding in the staff quarters when the aforementioned thunderstorm, that caused the roads to breakdown. The water came so close to where they were living that there was a distinct dangerous possibility of crocodiles having them for a meal!

It was during our chats that we also learned that Nick, our guide, studied to be a lawyer before embarking on this crazy job that required him to drive visitors to lodges and show them Australia!

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We woke up the next morning to a simple breakfast and continued exploring the area. There was supposed to be a walk at daybreak, which got cancelled, again due to the weather the past few days and some bits of the trail being submerged in water.

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This is the tent, which some of our friends slept in. It doesn't look half bad but from what I heard it might become a little challenging to stay in at night, well, because of the bug situation!

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The wallabies watched us closely, never allowing us to get too close.

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Lucky them! They got a short ride around the premises.

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There were plenty of birds as well, perched on the trees nearby.

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What a grand tree!

We headed off a couple of hours later for Litchfield National Park! I was really amazed by the parks - how they had really great paths / routes to follow, useful maps and signs. You could drive in and visit the attractions one by one on your own and it wouldn't be more difficult than, say, visiting the convenience store to buy groceries! It was well-maintained and I believe the experienced park rangers and other folks kept the places under close watch, careful to let the public know if the pools were safe for swimming or merely looking.

With that many crocodiles in the area, you can never be too sure.

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We visited Wangi Falls, which was nice, but not as spectacular as the Florence Falls where we all tried to get "into" the falls before realising that we weren't as powerful swimmers as we thought we were! We had a lot of fun though. The water was refreshingly cool and there weren't too many people visiting. We practically had the place to ourselves.

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There were toilets and places to get changed too so you never feel that you're too far from basic amenities.

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I was really sorry to leave but was really thankful for the chance to be there! The climb back up took my breath away in more ways than one...

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... but the feeling of being in the middle of nature was well worth it!

Next up - how I spent a day alone in Darwin!

2 comments:

Ai said...

so.. why do crocs remain unchanged after so many millions of years?

jason kyh said...

well that's cos they're really successful predators!